![]() The deep cycle also reach 14.4 volts at the same time. The since line is on the starting battery and as soon as I start the engine it reached 14.4 volts very fast. If there all solid state now then it would not buss like that one did. He finally agreed that his outboard did not really have enough output to charge the large deep cycle battery. Now the guy had a outboard that only had about 10 amps of output. It sounded like a small buzzer for quite a while. When it dropped back out the voltage would rise and the relay would pick again. Second battery was a larger deep cycle and as soon as it started to charge the relay would drop back out because the starting battery voltage dropped a lot. It basically waited until the starting battery reached a certain voltage then picked a relay to charge the second battery. I was helping a man with a with a ACR or VSR. 7 volts less than the regulator is set at because it voltage sense feed back come form before the isolator diode. With a one wire alternator or an outboard then yes the voltage at the battery will be about. The alternator it's self would put out a higher voltage until the voltage at the battery reached the voltage the regulator is set at. You could have 10 diodes in line and the battery would still get the same voltage. With a 3 wire alternator the sense input to the regulator comes from the battery so the battery is regulated to what ever voltage the regulator is set at. As far as chatter goes, they have hysteresis built in so that the cut in point and the cutout point are far away from each other. ![]() Most ACRS are solid state these days so there is no relay. With a diode isolator you DO have a voltage drop to the battery across the diodes. Both batteries are charged as soon as the engine is running. Witn an isolator all you do is turn your key and start off battery one. Put on one to start, then change to both to charge both while under way, then switch to 2 to run off of battery 2 while stopped, then back to one to start, back to both to again charge both. The thing I really like is you do not need a switch and do not have to play the switch game. VHF Radio, Loran C, GPS, Fish finder, power outlet for charger or blower to inflate raft or portable spot light. So the stuff on battery one normally only used when the motor is running and battery 1 very unlikely to be run down. In my case the stuff that came with the boat is on battery 1. You can also wire it with a switch if you think you might run down your starting battery or have a single jumper cable long enough to go from the positive wire on one battery to the positive wire on the other battery. Also their is no voltage drop to the battery. There is no relays to chatter or contacts to burn up and not make good contact. If you have a I/O with a three wire alternator then you can not do better than a battery isolator. If you have an outboard or a one wire alternator then a ACR or VCR is a better way to go. It really depends on your boat if a battery isolator is the best way to go. Been on the boat since 1980 and it works perfect to keep both batteries charged. BOTH = both batteries power everything on the boat and both are being charged when the engine is running. BAT 2 = the second battery powers everything on the boat including the engine starter and only it is being charged when the engine is running. BAT 1 = the starting battery powers everything on the boat and only it is being charged when the engine is running. OFF = disconnects both batteries so nothing can drain them. It is a heavy duty switch with four positions. A dual battery switch is the simplest, easiest to install, and least expensive, as well as being the most versatile solutin. Again, unless the ACR has a COMBINE function that ties the two batteries together, you cannot start the engine from the second battery. When it is fully charged the ACR switches to the second battery. An ACR allows the starting battery to be the default battery and always gets charged first. A better solution (there are two of them) are an ACR (automatic charge relay) or a dual battery switch. ![]() Isolators are not something you turn on and off - they operate anytime the engine is running. They also don't allow starting the engine from the second battery if the starting battery is dead (unless you have jumper cables with you). The issue with them is there is a voltage drop across them. An isolator is just that - it isolates the two batteries but allows the alternator to charge both of them. Is it just a spare? These are important questions and an isolator may not be what you really need. Ask yourself first, "why am I adding a second battery?" What will the second battery be powering if anything.
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